Rwanda: The jewel of Africa

Rwanda national flag

AFTER all these years, you probably know me as one of the earth’s most soaked bitter mouths, and also as an outspoken cynic. I regard most people as hopelessly lost, uninteresting and unscrupulous, and this applies especially to the inhabitants of our continent.

Almost every city in Africa is a nightmare of pollution, unfinished projects, drifts of rubbish and air pollution, chaotic traffic, roadworthy vehicles and pig-like behaviour of drivers confirm every time that there is no planning here, that each person simply only cares for himself, and that caring for your fellow man no longer exists.

And then, a few days ago, I landed for the first time in my life with a group of eco-tourists from Live the Journey in Kigali, the capital of Rwanda.

As we pulled out of the airport, our bus immediately went dead silent, and everyone stared out speechless, only to come to their senses minutes later.

It’s now three days later, and my guests still can't get over it - in the cities, along the national roads there is not a piece of paper or rubbish to be found.

Everywhere you look there are large posters exclaiming: Keep our Country Clean! All over the country, people pick up litter, sweep dust and leave into piles and trim hedges neatly.

But it doesn’t stop at cleanliness, it’s just the beginning of one of the most surprising and refreshing social revolutions I've ever seen. One can hardly imagine that, as recently as 1994, Rwanda was involved in one of the most terrifying genocides in the history of mankind. The slaughter was on an almost unimaginable scale and reminded one of the horrors of the Middle Ages.

From the rubble of destruction and unimaginable suffering, the leaders of the country decided to begin the restoration to peace and prosperity anew.

The first target was corruption, and within two years they eradicated it root and branch by simply setting traps for corrupt officials and brutally forcing them out of the system.

The message was crystal clear - if our country wants to grow with confidence, we must stand together against abuse and theft.

All motorcycle drivers who operate a taxi service wear a safety helmet with a spare helmet for the passenger.

At taxi ranks, everyone lines up neatly and waits patiently for their turn.

I am dumbfounded by the order in this country. As soon as you leave the city, you see further signs of innovative thinking to boost agricultural production, to get people to work together in co-operative and to market the products at fair prices.

New dams are being built for fish farms with chicken and rabbit cages above the water.

The manure falls into the water, the water is enriched and so the fish grow faster because of the algae that grow in the fertile water.

There are bee farms, fields full of pyritin for the production of organic and eco-friendly insecticide, and cornfields that would make the Free State blush.

With this I just want to say this, where there is a healthy political will, there is a humane and civilized way. It makes me sad to see that the political system in South Africa is solely focused on self-enrichment while we have this lovely example on our doorstep.

I predict that the history is going to damn us and Rwanda is going to glorify.

Their president in Rwanda, the people say proudly, wants them to be healthy by eating lots of vegetables. No overweight problems and very little diabetes. No automatic irrigation, only culverts from which the children rhythmically water the fields with a plastic bucket. Giant bags of potatoes are wheeled to the market by children of around 12-14 years old... You can’t believe your eyes.

We noticed that everyone was wearing bright orange Crocs. They explain their president feels if you have shoes on, you have dignity. Every Rwandan who does not have shoes is given crocs by the government. The shoes are then replaced at local markets with new ones at a low price.

We were the last Saturday of the month there. All shops, banks, cafes and just about everything is closed. It’s “we clean our country” day.

From the president to every kid who can, clean, paint houses, sweep streets, and we saw people scrubbing the lampposts on long fire brigade-type ladders, and people doing road signs wash.

We are told that President Kagame and his sons clean the streets together. Not one child ever begged money from us. They approach curiously and ask: “Where are you from?”

“Welcome to Rwanda.” Never ask for anything.

Interesting… they speak softly to each other, never shouting. In shops, muffled sounds are audible, never loud.

If the political will is there, and corruption is eradicated, anything is possible. A remarkable experience!

Let those who have eyes to see and ears to hear now take note of the successes of Rwanda.

  • Dave Pepler is a South African tour guide and scientist.

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