AFTER a memorably splendid lunch, when torrential rain briefly eased, I’ll swear I saw 50 shades of green before my eyes!
NO!  I’m not writing about the Emerald isle of Ireland or Wales’ wickedly wet hills, but the quite lovely sylvan view from the stoep of yet another newcomer to the Harare eating out scene.

Leafy?  More like jungle! You turn off Dacomb Drive (at the side of Chisipite Senior School) at No 15 and drive perhaps 200 or 300 metres on an unmade bush road and voila! a cozy, comfortable former colonial dwelling welcomes you to a fine feast of fish or seafood.

There was no signage outside (pending the granting of a liquor licence) when I visited and you must keep your eyes peeled for No 15 signs, but the search (and long journey from the CBD in miserable weather) was worth it.

The Codfather is run by the Deeres (Jacquie and “Nibs”) and has traded since October. For many years they’ve operated their major business: Sealife Seafoods, wholesaling and retailing fish, shellfish and other seafood at Rolf Valley.

Jacquie Deere said:  “Opening a restaurant serving the sort of produce we import from all over the world seemed to make sense.”
Indeed it did!

It was lunch, but I was oh so tempted by kippers on toast with poached egg and grilled tomato at US$8. I resisted, promising myself to return soon for breakfast/brunch on the one day of a week they are served: Sundays. And, hopefully, by then, they’ll have smoked haddock: that other staple breakfast fish flown in from Scotland back in stock.  (Tell me they’ve Abroath Smokies and I’ll know there is a God!)

Like many fish species –– especially the eponymous cod –– haddock’s been grossly overfished; there are consequentially major global shortages.
But you’re spoiled for choice otherwise. Ask for humble fish and chips and it’s battered hake with lovely golden chips (or…perish the thought…rice) at US$10…calamari rings and chips: same price.

At the top end of the menu are crayfish (marine or the scrumptious sweet freshwater species of Australian yabbies, now found in Lake Kariba and the Kafue) with chips at US$35, prawns and chips US$30 or Thai prawn curry US$20.

On a budget? Seafood pasta is US$10 and prawn, smoked salmon or cheese omelettes with “starch” US$9.

I initially found the simple A4 computer-printed laminated menu a bit confusing. There’s a starter platter of four different –– unnamed –– appetisers aimed at two people for US$18. You can have any one item at US$6. But you must ask what daily specials are.

Candidly, I’d never heard of “brandade”, but ordered it, having been assured it was white fish paté. I haven’t –– yet –– got one of those fancy smart phones nasty folk use to cheat at pub quizzes, otherwise Wikipedia would have immediately said that classical brandade is an emulsion of salt cod (bacalhau) and olive oil, eaten with bread or potatoes in Spain, Portugal, the south of France and Latin America.

This was a paté of rather bland (I thought the waiter said “blandage”!) white fish, substantially perked up by a liberal dollop of tangy garlic, totally enhanced by a zingy salad of mixed crisp leaves, baby cherry tomatoes, bean sprouts and sharp gherkins with a moreish dressing, Melba toast and excellent butter.

Dr Yahoo or Prof Google would have told me “brandade” is the past participle of the Catalonian verb “brandada”, which means “to whip with oscillating movements”. It has strong sexual connotations!

Ooh, there’s cheeky for you!

For mains I chose the posh fish and chips of the day at US$15, which on Thursday was totally delicious, whole Namibian sole, the subtly rich flesh of which lifted cleanly off the bones in two swift movements per side.

The fish, overlapping an oval platter both ends, was cooked faultlessly; smallish chips were piping hot, floury within, crisp, golden exteriors and were exemplary.

Other severely tempting main courses were mussels meuniere (bivalves simmered in white wine, onion and herb sauce, served with crusty bread) at US$15 and smoked Norwegian salmon on a bed of crushed potatoes, with a tomato, fennel and caper side dressing (US$18).

As a leading member of Soupaholics Unanimous I was disappointed no potage du jour was available and suggest that great fishy Scottish favourite Cullen Skink or Bouillabaisse, from Provence (really more of a fish stew) be added to the carte. Cantonese style fish curry might also prove popular.

Only listed pudding available was a lemon meringue pie: in reality it was a grand tasting, if dinky, citrusy lemon meringue tartlet, served with a generous dollop of ice-cream (or cream), garnished with ornately sliced strawberries. Sadly chocolate roullard with white chocolate mousse, and poached seasonal fruits, were both “off”. Sweets are US$6.

A liquor licence application is in; but, in the meantime, BYOB: no corkage. There’s a wide range of cool drinks and non-alcoholic Malawi and club shandies available and I finished –– waiting for another deluge from the cyclone (or tropical depression) tearing in from the Indian Ocean, wreaking havoc in Mozambique and the Kruger Park to abate –– with a splendid cafetiere of strong coffee at US$2.

The Codfather, 15 Dacomb Drive, Chisipite. Tel 498021/3; fax 498022; This e-mail address is being protected from spambots. You need JavaScript enabled to view it ; This e-mail address is being protected from spambots. You need JavaScript enabled to view it Open Wednesday-to-Saturday lunch and supper; Sunday breakfast and lunch; fish braai available on Sunday. Booking recommended weekdays, vital weekends.

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